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Whipworm:
 Adult whipworms look like pieces of thread with one end enlarged. They live in the caecum, the first section of the dog's large intestine. Infestations are usually light, so an examination of faeces may not reveal the presence of eggs. Several checks may be necessary before a definitive diagnosis can be made.
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Prevention:
Several worms that infect and reinfect dogs can also infect humans, so treatment and eradication of the worms in the environment are important. Remove dog faeces from back yards at least weekly, use appropriate vermicides under veterinary supervision, and have the dog's faeces checked frequently in persistent cases. Do not mix wormers and do not use any wormer if your dog is currently taking any other medication, including heartworm preventative, without consulting the veterinarian.
When walking the dog in a neighbourhood or park, remove all faeces so that the dog does not contribute to contamination of soil away from home as well.
Dogs that are in generally good condition are not threatened by worm infestations and may not even show symptoms. However, it's a good idea to keep the dog as worm-free as possible so that if disease or stress do take a toll, you're not fighting worms in a sick pet .
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Hotspots:
Your dogs been licking and chewing on that spot on her flank for the better part of a day, and it's now a raw, open sore, oozing fluid.
It has a superficial pyoderma, a skin infection known to veterinarians as pyotraumatic dermatitis and to dog owners as hot spots. Hot spots are surface skin infections caused when populations of normal skin bacteria grow and overwhelm normal resistance. They are generally circular patches that lose hair, can be swollen, may exude a smelly pus, and can be painfully itchy, causing the dog to scratch, lick, or bite to the point of self-mutilation. Untreated hot spots can spread and provoke a normally even-tempered dog to growl or nip when touched.
These troublesome sores can seem to arise in a matter of hours with no warning, but they do tend to follow a pattern that helps in predicting their occurrence.
Dogs most susceptible to hot spots are those with heavy coats and histories of allergies, ear infections, flea infestations, irritated anal sacs, and grooming problems such as hair tangles and mats, but any dog can develop this infection. Dogs in warm, humid climates may develop hot spots when they shed their undercoats if the dead hair is trapped next to the skin, and dogs with behaviour problems may mutilate themselves by licking and thus encourage an infection to become established.
The most common locations for hot spots are the legs and feet, flanks, and rump — areas that can be reached by licking or biting — but these localised infections can also appear on ears, neck, and chest if the dog is continually scratching .
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Treatment:
Two approaches are necessary for dealing with hot spots: treat the sore and remove the underlying cause to prevent recurrences.
Trim the hair around the sore to prevent further spread of the infection and expose the edges of the lesion; wash the area in a mild water-based astringent or antiseptic; be prepared to use antibiotics or cortisone if the washing does not give results. We recommends against the use of ointments or creams because they can seal in the infection and hinder recovery. In severe cases, a veterinarian may suggest the use of an Elizabethan collar to prevent mutilation and give the spot a chance to heal.
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Prevention:
If the underlying cause is tangled or matted hair or trapped dead hair, put the dog on a regular grooming schedule either at home or at a grooming salon. Never bathe a dog with matted or tangled hair — comb the snarls out first. Clip mats if you cannot easily comb them out, and make an appointment for professional grooming every four-to-six weeks if you cannot keep the dog mat-free on your own.
If the underlying cause is allergies, begin an aggressive campaign to rid your home and yard of fleas and work with your veterinarian on a plan to reduce allergy triggers for your pet. Household dust, plant pollen, lawn chemicals, and diet can all cause allergies or can build to a crescendo of allergies if the dog's sensitivities cross a threshold. Frequent vacuuming, supplements to keep the skin and coat healthy, air purifiers, and baths in skin-soothing herbal or medicated shampoos with aloe, oatmeal, jojoba, or eucalyptus can help. Next step is over-the-counter antihistamines such as Benadryl or Atarax — with a veterinarian's approval. If these don't work, then steroids to reduce the inflammation and the immune system reaction to the allergen and perhaps antibiotics to cure the infected hot spot are the next course of treatment.
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Breeding
Experience required to be a dog breeder
by
Jane Anderson of
Bluegrace Portuguese Water Dog
In our society, breeding dogs is not a right. It is a privilege that far too many people take for granted. We are guardians of our dogs, and we must ensure when we breed that we do the best by the dogs, and the best for the new puppy owners.
If you think you know enough to be a good breeder, please click here to go to our questionnaire. If you can correctly answer 90% of the questions, then you have a good foundation from which to move forward and breed responsibly.
If you can't answer these questions, or feel you do need more experience, this page will provide an outline of the experiences you need prior to breeding your first litter of puppies.
Learning
- you need to be open to learning. If you already think you know everything, then you are wasting your time reading this page.
Most people, however, are smart enough to know that learning is a never ending process.
Mentoring
You need to find a mentor. A mentor is a person who has several years experience in the breed you want to specialise in. It is preferable that you have 2-3 mentors in your breed. Additionally, it is also good if you can get a mentor in another breed who can provide you with complementary information.
This is basically known as "serving your apprenticeship". You need to soak up every bit of knowledge the mentors provide you with, and critically evaluate the knowledge they provide. Sometimes the information won't be correct, and so you need to ensure you are open to hearing contradictory information. In fact you should speak to people who may not necessarily tell you what you want to hear.
I recommend you spend at least 2 years under the wing of a good mentor, and during this period you assist with preparing dogs for the ring, handling dogs, and assist in the whelping of 3 litters of pups, and preferably have experience helping a bitch with whelping problems.
Ensure you learn how to bottle feed pups, tube feed pups, check for mastitis, keep pups warm, appropriate placement of dam and pups, etc. In fact, check this site for the page on questions for the many points you need to learn.
You should also help the breeder raise the pups. It is important you follow the pups over the first few months of their lives. Start learning how to judge the quality of dogs. Ensure you have a copy of the breed standard, and get the breeder to help you learn to develop your eye for a good dog. This takes time and practice.
Like a leader, a good breeder is made, not born.
Watch dogs grow
Once you start to develop an eye for dogs that you like and dislike as adults, get pictures of them. Write down what you like and dislike about each of them. It is critical you can find something good in every dog you find, as it is easy to find faults. Any ditz can find a fault in a dog. You need to be able to find the good points as well. This is critical for your development.
Now, once you have distinguished between the dogs you like and those you don't like, get pictures of them as youngsters if you possibly can.
From these, you can learn what the pups looked like at an early age. This will help you learn to develop your eye to pick a dog that is going to be good, and one that is not.
As you learn, be prepared to change your mind if you find improved information. For example: you may think a particular boxer head is awful because one of your mentors was clueless as to the correct look for the boxer head. Along comes a guru in the breed that spends the time teaching you better, and in turn your opinions are modified. Be prepared to learn - and watch out for the politics - never ever back stab a dog person to another dog person. They will always find out.
Learn Pedigrees
As you learn more about your breed of dog, it is important you start understanding the pedigrees. i.e.: who were the sire and dam. Also look for litter mates. See if you can learn how to pick family traits and similarities.
As you get more experienced you should be able to look at a dog and say, "hmmm... that looks like it might have come from such and such a dog, and was bred by what's her name."
Learning the lines and types in your breed will then help you to select the dog you ultimately use as your first stud dog.
Education
Many of the canine control bodies will offer short courses on learning to be a breeder. Attend these whenever possible.
Also attend any breed lectures available.
Sometimes different bodies will run lecture nights on a range of different subjects. These can be good to attend - but beware the ones run by companies whose agenda is to sell you dog food and/or vaccinations. While being effective salespeople, what they offer is not necessarily at all good for your dog. You will learn over time who are the snake oil sellers!
Books
Be prepared to spend a few hundred dollars buying some good books on the following subjects:
anatomy, first aid, genetics, feeding dogs, breeding, showing, whelping, and specialist books on your breed.
As a rule of thumb, try and build your library over 4 years to collect in excess of 15 books. These are a wise investment. Many of the on-line book retailers offer competitive prices, but make sure you shop around.
Additionally, I recommend people subscribe to magazines featuring general dog show themes, and their own breed specialty magazines.
Clubs and Associations
I recommend you join your country's canine association. Every country has one, and in order to have registered pups, you will need to be a member and abide by their rules and ethics.
Additionally, where possible, join a breed specialist club, and a general dog club. If you have the chance, join a club that runs dog shows as these provide wonderful learning opportunities.
Email lists At a minimum, you should join at least 5 email lists. There are several different providers of free email list services, such as Yahoo groups and Smart groups. Visit those sites and search for lists of your breed, and other associated topics.
If you need guidance, I'd suggest joining the dog mentor list, the list on feeding breeding dogs, and the list on general feeding of dogs.
Apart from learning about a range of subjects, with the appropriate learning style, you can also learn a great deal about tact, diplomacy, and may even have the chance to run a list.
Helping others - there is an old saying, "to teach is to learn twice". When you are starting to gain confidence in your knowledge and skills, it is an important part of your own learning process to teach others.
Not only that, but teaching others means they can learn from your mistakes, and be better at breeding, doing the best by our canine companions.
Breeding Realities
by Jane Anderson
with the help of lots of other people.
With some people, it doesn't matter how information is put in front of them, they will always try and back away from reality. So if you'd prefer not to read reality, please close your browser now.
If, however, you'd like to learn how to be a responsible breeder, please continue your learning journey here:
When you breed your dog, you put her at risk
Breeding your dog is a costly event, and you will most probably have more expenses than you will have income from puppies
Regardless of how much experience you have, you can still have disasters
Expect to have a number of sleepless nights
Death of just one pup, even in a large litter, can be heartbreaking. Expect to take some time to get over that too.
No vet is perfect.
It is almost impossible to get a fading puppy to survive, and you can lose a whole litter to fading puppy syndrome.
It is impossible to predict how successful the breeding will be
Many people think that breeding dogs is easy. However, the reality is quite different.
I often have people email me who want to breed, and invariably their bitch has just come into season, and they want to breed without having the skills or the knowledge. At best, this is careless. If your bitch is in season, and you are asking questions now, then do NOT breed her. Wait until you are properly trained and mentored.
If you do not have the competencies required to facilitate the breeding of your bitch, the raising of puppies, and the placement of puppies, it is irresponsible and unethical to breed until you have.
As a starting point, if you can answer the following questions, then you'll be well on the track to being ready to breed. If you can't answer 90% of these, don't even bother attempting to breed until you can:
Setting yourself up right
What does dog conformation refer to?
How can you test if my dog has the correct conformation?
What important points should be considered on a dog's pedigree?
How many championships should be listed in a pedigree prior to breeding?
The beginning of the season
When will a bitch first come into season?
Should a bitch be bred on her first season?
How old should a bitch be before breeding commences?
On what grounds should a bitch not be bred from?
On what days is a bitch fertile?
How long is a bitch's season?
Breeding the dogs
On what day's should a bitch be bred?
What is a stud master and when should they be used?
On what attributes is a stud dog selected?
What health testing should both the dam and dog have prior to breeding?
How old should a dog be before he is used at stud?
What are the responsibilities of a stud dog owner?
What are the important contract items to have in a breeding contract?
On what grounds should a dog be neutered?
What diseases can a dog get while being bred?
When should a dog be allowed near an in season bitch?
How does the breeding actually take place?
Does there need to be a tie for a breeding to have taken place?
What is AI and when should it be conducted?
Who should conduct the AI and what specific precautions should be taken?
Why is the stud dog turned during a breeding?
How many times should a bitch be bred?
Can a litter have more than one father?
Where must a bitch be kept while she is in season?
Gestation
How long is a bitch's gestation?
What special diet should the bitch be fed while in season, and while pregnant?
Under what special circumstances should additional calcium be fed to a pregnant bitch?
Whelping
What are the signs that a bitch is going into labour?
What is the best type of whelping box arrangements?
Where should the bitch be when she whelps?
What are the signs that the whelping is going well?
What are the signs that there are problems developing?
When should a c-section be performed?
What is primary inertia and the implications?
What is secondary inertia and the implications?
What is oxytocin?
When should the vet be called for help?
Should calcium be administered during whelping?
What does green fluid indicate?
How long should it take for a bitch to whelp?
What is the incidence of puppy deaths in each litter?
What is a breach birth, how often does it happen, and what are the problems that can result?
What are the implications for a pup born out of the sac?
How do you ensure that each placenta is accounted for, and what do you do if they are not?
What should be done with the placenta?
How do you resuscitate a dead puppy?
How do you clear fluid from a puppy's lungs?
How many extra set of hands should you have at a c-section?
When should oxygen be administered to puppies?
When should puppies first fed from the dam?
How do you check for cleft palate?
How are puppies who are deformed managed?
Caring for the mother
What should the dam be fed while she is looking after puppies?
What are the signs of infection in the bitch?
Caring for puppies
What are the signs that the puppies are progressing well?
What are the signs that the puppies are in trouble?
What is mastitis and how is it treated?
What do you do if the dam's milk does not come in?
How do you bottle feed a puppy, and what do you use?
How do you tube feed a puppy?
How can you tell if a puppy is feeding well?
How can you tell if a pup has received enough milk?
How can you check to see if a pup is dehydrated?
What is fading puppy syndrome and how do you rescue a puppy from it?
What are the common problems to be aware of when raising the puppies?
When do you introduce "real food" to puppies?
Why should puppies never be given "baby food"?
Why should puppies not be given grains to eat?
Should puppies be vaccinated?
Should puppies be wormed?
Under what conditions should a puppy be culled and how?
Under what conditions should a puppy be wormed and/or vaccinated?
Placing puppies
How do you choose puppy buyers?
What responsibilities do you have as a breeder for those pups?
What sort of guarantees are you going to offer the buyers?
How do you ensure your puppy buyers are going to look after the puppies?
When and how do you temperament test puppies?
How do you match the right puppy with the right person?
When do you remove the dam from the puppies?
When should the puppies be totally weaned?
How are puppies house trained?
When are puppies first socialised and how?
What sort of puppy pack information are you going to provide to the buyers?
When do you start training the puppies?
What breeder support are you offering once the puppies have gone?
You'll find the answers to these questions from gaining loads of experiencing under the careful guidance of a mentor before you breed yourself .
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Whelping Chart
If you would a copy of a whelping chart please feel free to email us and we will be happy to forward one onto you.
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Better Breathe
2 cups rice flour
1 Tbls. activated charcoal - see Notes below
1 tsp. salt
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/3 cup chopped fresh mint
3 Tbls. vegetable oil
1 egg
2/3 cup milk
-Combine flour, charcoal, and salt; set aside.
-Beat together parsley, mint, oil, and egg.
-Gradually add dry mixture to wet mixture while mixing.
-Stir in enough milk to make a thick, pasty dough.
-Drop dough by heaping Tablespoonfuls 2" apart onto a greased cookie sheet.
-Bake in a 400 degree oven for 15 minutes.
-Cool biscuits and store, covered, in the refrigerator.
Notes: Store at room temperature up to 1 month OR freeze up to 1 year. Activated charcoal can be purchased in most health food stores.
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Bacon Biscuits
3/4 cup bacon grease - divided
5 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup milk
1/2 cup beef broth
2 eggs
1/4 tsp. garlic powder (see Notes below)
1 tsp. salt -Grease a cookie sheet with 1 Tbls. bacon grease.
-Combine remaining ingredients; mix well.
-Roll dough into 1/2" - 2" balls and place balls 1" apart on prepared cookie sheet.
-Bake in a 350 degree oven for 25-35 minutes.
-Allow to cool and dry on wire racks.
Notes: Store at room temperature up to 1 month OR freeze up to 1 year. Garlic is known to prevent flea infestation. Fresh garlic in large quantities is poisonous to animals; the small amount of garlic powder in this recipe will not affect your pet
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Cheesy Biscuits
1 cup boiling water
1 cup rolled oats
1/3 cup margarine
1 cup shredded cheddar cheese
3/4 cup cornmeal
1/2 cup milk
1 egg - beaten
1 Tbls. granulated sugar
2 tsp. chicken OR beef bouillon granules
2 1/2 - 3 cups all-purpose OR whole wheat flour -Stir together water, oats, and margarine; allow to sit for 10 minutes.
-Stir cheese, cornmeal, milk, egg, sugar, bouillon into oat mixture.
-Stir in flour, 1/2 cup at a time, mixing well after each addition, until a stiff dough forms.
-Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead in remaining flour until dough is no longer sticky; knead a total of 4 minutes.
-Roll dough out to 1/2" thick.
-Cut shapes out of dough with a cookie cutter and place 1" apart on a greased cookie sheet.
-Bake in a 325 degree oven for 35-45 minutes, until golden brown.
-Allow to cool and dry on wire racks.
Notes: Store in refrigerator up to 1 month OR freeze up to 1 year
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Garlic Biscuits
2 1/2 cups whole wheat flour
1/2 cup dry milk powder
1 tsp. brown sugar
1/2 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. garlic powder (see Notes below)
1/3 cup meat drippings (i.e. bacon grease, etc.)
1 egg - beaten
1/2 cup ice water -Combine flour, milk powder, brown sugar, salt, and garlic powder.
-Cut meat drippings into dry mixture until mixture forms coarse crumbs.
-Knead in egg with a fork.
-Slowly knead in water, adding just enough until mixture forms a ball.
-Turn dough onto a lightly floured surface and roll out to 1/2" thick
-Cut shapes out of dough with a cookie cutter and place on a greased cookie sheet.
-Bake in a 350 degree oven for 25-30 minutes.
-Allow to cool and dry on wire racks.
Notes: Store at room temperature up to 1 month OR freeze up to 1 year. Garlic is known to prevent flea infestation. Fresh garlic in large quantities is poisonous to animals; the small amount of garlic powder in this recipe will not affect your pet
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Liver Treats
1 Lb. beef OR pork liver
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup corn meal
2 Tbls. garlic salt (see Notes, below)
1 Tbls. garlic powder (see Notes, below) -Puree all ingredients in a food processor or blender.
-Pour mixture evenly onto a greased cookie sheet and press flat.
-Bake in a 350 degree oven for 20 minutes, or just until no longer pink.
-Cool completely before breaking into pieces.
Notes: Store in refrigerator up to 3 weeks OR freeze up to 1 year. Garlic is known to prevent flea infestation. Fresh garlic in large quantities is poisonous to animals; the small amount of dried garlic in this recipe will not affect your pet
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Oats and Eggs
2 cups of cooked oats
3 eggs
1/2 teaspoon of Supplement powder see below
1 teaspoon of bone-meal or equivalent
1 teaspoon of brewers yeast
Meaty Meal
1 cup of raw or cooked meat
1½ teaspoons of bone-meal or equivalent
½ teaspoon of Supplement powder see below
Feed with Natural Choice meal
Either meal is about ½ a days ration for a medium dog
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Rice and Beans
For those who which to avoid too much meat (not nutritionally ideal but perhaps there are other factors such as environment, cost etc.)
1 cup rice (2 ½ cooked) boil as usual
1 cup of raw minced meat
1 cup cooked kidney beans
1 tablespoon of 'Supplement Powder' see below
1 tablespoon veg oil
1 tablespoon of bone-meal or equivalent
1 5,000 i.u vitamin A and D capsule or cod liver oil equivalent
1 500 i.u. Vitamin E capsule
1 clove of garlic
pinch salt
Daily ration for medium dog about 3-4 cups make up in any quantity you like to store
frozen. Add an egg for extra protein if required.
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Doggy Loaf
4oz of raw beef heart
6 slices of whole wheat bread, crumbled
1 cup of milk
2 large eggs
¼ cup of vegetables
1 tablespoon of Supplement powder see below
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
1 ½ teaspoon of bone-meal or equivalent
1 clove of garlic
100 i.u of Vitamin E
Combine all ingredients and serve raw or cooked in the oven until lightly browned. Add the
supplement after cooking.
This is enough for a dog of around 20 kg body weight
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Meaty Loaf
4 cups of Rolled Oats (cook in water for 10 minutes then combine with the other ingredients)
1 pound of raw mince e.g. turkey, chicken, beef heart etc.
2 tablespoons of vegetable oil,
½ to 1 cup raw grated or liquidised vegetables: e.g. carrot, courgette, and broccoli
2 tablespoons of bonemeal powder or 3,000 mg of Calcium tablets or 3 teaspoons of eggshell powder
5,000 i.u. Vitamin A optional if using raw carrot e.g. cod liver oil
½ teaspoon salt (Lo Sodium salt for dogs with heart problems)
1 clove of garlic.
2 tablespoons of the Supplement see below
This will give about 10/11 cups of which you feed. Small Breed about 2-4 cups; Medium Breed 5-7 cups; Large Breed 7-10 cups. Freeze the rest for another day.
Cottage cheese and eggs can be used in place of mince; 1 pint of cheese and 2 eggs in place of a pound of mince. If feeding mince with bone included as a lot of poultry pet mince is, then reduce the bone meal by half. If feeding bones as well then none at all.
Rice or Potatoes can be used in place of oats ½ cup (before cooking) of brown rice or 5 cups of cooked potatoes in the above recipe.
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Growth Diets
For nursing bitches or growing pups or simply add an extra egg to other recipes:
3 cups of oats
2 eggs
2 cups of raw lean, meat Vary it (Cottage cheese can be used instead some days)
4 teaspoons of Bonemeal or equivalent
2 tablespoons of Supplement powder see below
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil
7,500 units of Vitamin A
300 i.u. of Vitamin E
½ cup of vegetables Supplement Powder 2 cups of nutritional yeast or brewers yeast
¼ cup of Kelp powder
1000 mg of Vitamin C (or ¼ teaspoon of Sodium ascorbate)
Mix together and refrigerate and use as in above recipes.
Alternatively use one of the following supplements we can supply:
Pet Plus, Udo's Pet Essentials or Missing Link. add some extra vitamin C (Ascorbic acid/Sodium ascorbate) 100mg per 10 kg twice daily ideally.
Booster Mixes
If you feel unable to feed a full natural diet, you can boost your dogs nutrition by using the following recipes which can be added to their diet on a regular basis. Variety is good
it is best not to use the same one all the time.
Fresh Meat Supplement:
4 teaspoons of Vegetable oil,
4 teaspoons of Supplement powder see above
2 teaspoons of bonemeal or 1 teaspoon of eggshell powder
100-200 i.u. of Vitamin E
5,000 to 10,000 i.u. of Vitamin A e.g. cod liver oil
up to ½ cup of raw grated or liquidised veggies.
1lb of raw minced meat e.g. turkey, chicken beef
Use ¼ cup of this to each cup of kibble
Cottage Cheese Supplement
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
2 teaspoons of Supplement Powder see above
1 teaspoon of bonemeal (0r 1/4th of eggshell powder)
5,000 to 10,000 i.u. Vitamin E
¾ cup of cottage cheese
¼ to ½ cup of raw veggies.
This is enough for 2 to 3 cups of kibble.
Fresh Egg Supplement
1 teaspoon of veg. Oil
1 teaspoon of Supplement Powder see above
1/2 teaspoon of bonemeal
50- 200 i.u. of Vitamin E
2 eggs
Enough for ½ cups of kibble
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Fleas:
The most common canine pest is the flea. However, since they often carry tapeworms, can cause severe itching and even allergy, and often bite humans, their jumping and survival talents are annoying.
Fleas begin to emerge from their pupae as adults and migrate to the nearest dog or cat for blood meals. An adult flea mates shortly after emergence and begins laying eggs within 36 hours. In her brief 50-day lifespan, a single female flea can lay more than 2000 eggs.
An adult flea is the slam-dunk champ of the insect world. About the size of a pinhead, it can jump about 100 times its own height, a far greater leap than that possible for the multi-million dollar basketball player. This ability to jump makes it possible to travel quickly from host to host and from host to hiding place for laying eggs.
Female fleas need blood to complete their reproductive cycle. Baby fleas need blood to grow. Although fleas prefer dog and cat blood, human blood will do in a pinch.
Fleas are marvellously adapted for survival. The female lays eggs on the host animal, but the eggs fall to the ground, carpet, sofa, dog bed, owner's bed, or easy chair where they hatch in two-to-five days. The flea larva feeds on organic debris in the environment. Within a week or two, depending on temperature and humidity, the larva spins a pupa (or cocoon) to protect it during metamorphosis to the adulthood.
Humidity is critical to flea survival. Eggs need relative humidity of 70-75 percent to hatch, and larvae need at least 50 percent humidity to survive. In humid areas, about 20 percent of the eggs survive to adulthood; in arid areas, less than five percent complete the cycle.
Flea bite dermatitis
When flea bites dog, proteins (antigens) in the insect's saliva can cause an immune system reaction which can causes itching. The irritation can begin immediately, in five-to-six hours or in 24-48 hours or a combination of the three — all from a single bite.
Small red raised bumps on the base of the tail and along the outside of the back legs, self-induced scratches, and thickened skin on the base of the tail are all signs of chronic flea allergy. The diagnosis can be confirmed with an intradermal skin allergy test.
Treatment
Dog owners have access to many flea control products from herbs and electronics to biological controls. Some products repel fleas, some kill adult fleas, some kill larva or eggs, and some prevent fleas from growing and reproducing.
Garlic and brewer's yeast are popular flea repellents with the natural crowd, but there are no tests that indicate these diet supplements are effective. Many dog owners believe they work, however.
Flea collars have mixed results depending on the chemical involved, the size of the dog, and the density of the dog's coat.
The new generation of controls includes Frontline, the ingredients in Frontline and Advantage are not absorbed into the bloodstream and are toxic only to fleas, not to dogs or their owners. Program, Frontline, and Advantage are available only through veterinarians; all other flea controls can be purchased over-the-counter in pet supply stores or supermarkets.
Pyrethrums kill adult fleas but are short-lived. Pyrethrins, the genetically altered form pyrethrum, lasts for 10 days or so. Pyrethrum and pyrethrin are often found in shampoos and in pet and premise sprays containing growth inhibitors.
With mild flea infestations, an occasional bath with a pyrethrin shampoo or a Program prescription may do the trick, especially when combined with a premise spray that contains a growth inhibitor or with application of sodium polysorbate, an insecticide that kills fleas by lethal constipation and desiccation. More serious infestations may call for the big guns, especially if the dog is allergic. But whatever combination platter of flea treatments you choose, make sure you have something on hand for the hot, humid days of summer when fleas can invade in hordes.
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Ticks:
With eight legs instead of six, the tick is cousin to the spider, not the insect. It's claim to fame is its penchant for spreading disease as it feasts on mammal blood. There are several species that feed on dogs, including the brown dog tick, and the cattle tick, paralyse tick and they all thrive in tall grass, shrubby areas, and woods.
Unlike the flea, the tick is a sluggish mover and can easily be picked off the dog with tweezers as it crawls about looking for a feeding spot. So, after a walk in the woods, check your dog for ticks from top to bottom (including in the mouth and between pads). L
A dab of antiseptic cream on the spot where the tick was removed will help prevent local infection, especially on tender ears, a favourite feeding place for ticks.
To control ticks in the environment, keep grass trimmed and control the spread of shrubbery and tall weeds.
If your dog falls ill after removal of a tick, be sure to immediately contact your vet.
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Having a litter
Whelping and new pups! Well, you've really gone and done it now, haven't you! That moment you've been waiting impatiently for is here and you have to face the facts that you are going to be a mother...of sorts. Luckily, the vast majority of bitches will have their pups without any help from you or anyone else. You may be able to just sit back and watch the entire process.
Nevertheless there certainly are times when you MUST intervene; times when the bitch and the neonates will need your assistance. Breeding: Most female dogs "go into heat" (estrus) about every 6 or 7 months beginning sometime before their first year of age. It is best to allow the bitch to reach full growth before breeding her. Why put the added stress of forming and nursing a litter of pups while her body is geared toward making her own structures? Always wait until she is fully developed before breeding her; in the large breeds such as the St. Bernard, Great Dane, and Irish Wolfhound, this won't occur until after they are over two years of age.
The bitch is usually ready to stand and hold for the male to breed to her about ten to twelve days into the heat cycle. Start counting days at the first sign of any blood discharge from the vulva. Just remember that every dog is different regarding when she will allow breeding, so keep good records of everything you note regarding dates of first bloody discharge, how much discharge is occurring, how much swelling of the vulva is noticed, and the bitch's attitude and temperament.
And here's an important note: You should mark the day you first see any discharge "day one"...however, you may have missed a few light flow days. In these cases, what you are calling "day one" may really be day three, four or five! So, when do you bring the male to her for breeding? Do not wait until the tenth day; bring the male to her a few days ahead of time because if she's ready you better breed her now! She will let you know if your timing is right by her willingness or unwillingness to stand for the male. If she's ready, regardless of what number day it is, she will crook her tail off to one side, stand in front of the male, and even back into the male. Just because we think she should breed on a certain day has no influence on her hormonal levels. Try to get the bitch and stud together a number of days and times earlier than that tenth day of bloody discharge. Another good guideline as to when to breed is that often the discharge will turn from a dark, bloody color to a more lighter, almost tan color.
A note about doing a slide smear: So many breeders ask their veterinarians to "do a smear so I know what day to breed her".
They are asking the impossible! A "smear" of the vaginal discharge is done by swabbing onto a microscope slide a small amount of the vaginal discharge. Those cells are dried and stained and the types and maturity of those cells are noted. When the preponderance of those cells have lost their nucleii and become more old appearing, the technician can safely say that the peak of the heat cycle is approaching. That's all. In no way can a determination as to the "right time to breed" be made with a high degree of accuracy from a vaginal smear. All your veterinarian or veterinary technician can do is to say "She hasn't reached peak cycle yet" or "It looks like she's about at her peak now" or "I think she is past her peak breeding time now".
Anything more specific than that is pretty much just a guess. The best way to know when to breed is to get the male and female dogs together and see if THEY think it's time. Always bring them together sooner than you believe is the peak of her cycle. It is far better to be five days early than five hours late. Remember, she won't be in heat again for half a year!
OK...so she and the stud bred twice the first day and twice the second day and once the third day. Nice going'! There's a great chance she'll become pregnant. The sperm will fertilize the eggs and the fertile eggs will migrate down the two uterine horns looking for a favorable area to attach to the lining of the uterine wall. Attachment will occur a number of days after the breeding (that's why some anti-fertility medications can be given after the breeding. These medications make the uterine lining a hostile area for the fertilized eggs so the eggs can't find an inviting area of the uterine lining. If they do not attach to the uterine lining they eventually degenerate.)
If impregnation into the uterine lining has occurred, your veterinarian will be able to feel the swollen areas along the uterus about the twenty-second to the twenty-fourth day after the last breeding. A good estimate of the number of active areas can be made, too, so you can start lining up all those potential buyers for your pups! The pups are usually ready to enter our world sixty-three days after conception, although small breeds often have shorter gestation periods of only fifty-nine or sixty days. It is best to count days starting from the last known breeding since many bitches will allow breeding to occur for two to four days in a row.What To Expect When "It's Time"...
Let me suggest that you forget about using a thermometer to aid your guess as to when the pups are on the way. Some bitches' temperature will drop from a normal range (101 to 102.5 degrees) to a degree or so below their normal a few hours prior to whelping...but many don't. And if her temperature does drop and no puppies are forthcoming, are you going to rush her into surgery? Of course not. Recording the temperature, and over-estimating its importance, can cause you more turmoil and anxiety than any value taking the temperature may have as a prognosticator of labor, so don't bother with it if you don't want to.
The first sign that the new puppy-family is on the way usually is signaled by the bitch's lack of interest in food about twenty-four hours before whelping. Then you may notice she will lick at her vulva and have slight abdominal cramping. Then the abdominal contractions become more frequent...about every half hour. All of a sudden you may notice a shiny, grayish sac drooping through the vulva; it looks like a gray water balloon. The bitch may walk around with this hanging out and will often open the "water sac" and a clear fluid will run out. The pup's on the way! In most cases the pup will be delivered within an hour of this sac being presented for your viewing pleasure since now the pup is surely in the pelvic canal. The first pup often is the most difficult for the bitch to pass, and she may strain quite hard and even moan a bit. Don't panic yet. (Although, it is a good idea to call your veterinarian and announce proudly "she's havin' 'em!". Now the entire animal hospital staff will be on the alert that you will be calling every fifteen minutes with updates on her progress.) If she hasn't passed the pup within one hour of the "water sac" showing, do call your veterinarian and discuss the need for her to be seen right away to help pass the pup.
When the pup is passed through the pelvic canal and into our world it will be covered in a thin membrane that looks like plastic wrap. If the bitch does not lick and nip this membrane away from the puppy right away, and most do, you should remove it so the pup can breathe. (The pup has about six minutes of "grace period" before it must breathe, otherwise brain damage or death will occur.) Give the mother a few seconds to remove this membrane; if she doesn't, you do it.
You will notice that the pup is attached to a yucky looking mass of tissue by the umbilical cord. You can separate the pup from this blackish-green tissue, which is the afterbirth. (The afterbirth is the tissue that attaches very closely to the lining of the uterus. Through the afterbirth the pup "breathes" and acquires nourishment via the umbilical cord; now that the pup is born, though, there's no need for this equipment any more. Now it's nasty looking and yucky so throw it out.) There is no real benefit for the bitch to eat all the afterbirths so discard them if you wish. In fact, some dogs can get digestive upsets from consuming a large number of afterbirths. Those of you who for some reason want their bitch to eat the afterbirths, that's your choice.
Licking and cleaning the new pup is the bitch's first order of business now that the membrane is removed and the umbilical cord is chewed through (or separated about an inch away from the pup by you). If she ignores the pup, you can take a clean towel and rub the puppy dry; this will stimulate it to breath and it will protest a bit. Ouch...Welcome to our world! While doting over the new pup the bitch will probably start the process over and present another one...here we go again! While the new pup's brothers and sisters are yet to see the light of day, the first pup, having found a nipple, is already having breakfast. (I say breakfast because the vast majority of whelpings occur in the very early hours of predawn darkness!)
In any litter the entire process of whelping can take from two to twenty hours. In Golden Retrievers, for example, they may have three pups in the first hour, take a break for three or four hours, have a few more, take a break, have one, take a break and finish up sometime the next day. All that may be perfectly normal. However, if a bitch is really straining, with contractions coming every minute or so and no pup is presented within half an hour, get the veterinarian on the phone. Often, if the bitch seems to be doing nothing for a few hours and you are sure there are more pups to be delivered, the bitch often can be energized to have more contractions by a brisk walk outside. She may not want to leave the pups but fresh air and a short run or walk will get things started again. Have food and water available for her, too.
Sometimes the litter will be so large, either in numbers of pups or size of pups, that a problem with Uterine Inertia can occur. In these situations the bitch will fail in weak attempts to pass the pups. She may not even show any visible contractions. Here is a good example of why you should keep good records of dates and times of breeding.
If the bitch has progressed to the sixty-fifth day after breeding and still no pups are on the way, there's a problem! If the uterus has been so stretched and fatigued by a large litter or large size of the puppies, she may not be able to pass them. Uterine Inertia also is common when an older bitch has a single fetus that doesn't stimulate the uterus enough to begin contractions. Your veterinarian must be consulted. Medical intervention will be tried first, an x-ray may be taken (don't worry, a single x-ray in full term pups presents practically zero risk) and if medications do not induce labor...it's time for surgery! Weaning Puppies From Their Mother
Most breeders will not allow pups to nurse from the bitch longer than 5 weeks. They are introduced to a starter or weaning formula at about 24 days of age when the pups will be able to begin eating on their own.
One of the best ways to wean puppies is to present them with a semi-liquid nourishment in a shallow pan such as a cookie baking sheet. Gently place the pups at the edge of the food, push their little chins into the food and they will smell it and begin to lick the mixture you prepared. It's really fun to watch them light up at their first taste of puppy formula! Once they get a taste of the food they usually consume it in earnest. This process of starting on puppy weaning formula can begin at three weeks of age and within a week they will be looking for that special treat we call puppy food! Gradually thicken the formula with ground up dry puppy food or begin adding canned puppy food to their weaning mixture. By five weeks of age they should be eating four meals a day of a high quality puppy food.
You can break up kibble so it is smaller than packaged or soak it a bit in warm water to soften. It is a good idea to get pups acquainted with both canned and dry food. Some suggested starter formulas will be displayed here soon.
NOTE! Always have fresh and clean water available.
Introduce the pups to the water dish as you did to the puppy weaning formula. How much to feed is more of a guess than a science.
Most puppies will eat until they are satisfied and then turn away.
Feeding four times a day, in small portions, is preferred over one or two large meals. As the pups grow they can eat more of a high quality puppy food... canned or dry... and less of the milk replacer.
Most puppies by 6 weeks of age, especially larger breeds, can eat small kibble or canned food on their own without any modification of the food. Puppies and kittens can be introduced to the weaning diet as early as 24 days of age.
Only mix an amount of weaning formula as you will need at that feeding.
Discard any food that has not been eaten. Using a blender is helpful; otherwise mix the ingredients well so the puppies do not risk any choking. Large breeds, as expected, can handle larger food bits than small breed pups.
You can use the liquid milk replacers or mix the powder according to the directions on the label. Keep opened powdered or liquid milk replacer in the refrigerator, but it is good to warm up the portion being mixed for each feeding.
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Storm Fears
Help your dog cope with thunder and fireworks:
A dog who is afraid of loud noises can create anxiety for the whole family. Here are some tips for soothing your storm or fireworks troubled dog. Short term Quick Fixes:
Play! Depending on your dog's level of anxiety (pacing vs. curled up trembling) simply distracting him may be the best course of action. Play, sing songs, exercise the dog as much as you can to try and wear it out. Help your dog associate thunder with a fabulous playtime!
Crate your dog or move their bedding into a enclosed space like a closet. A dog who feels "safe" will be less anxious, and a "den" is the instinctual place for a dog to feel safe. It may help to cover your dog's crate with a blanket or sheet to create a den feeling.
Create as much white noise as you can. Fans, TV's, radios, etc. Try to drown out the majority of the sound. Find a T-shirt that fits the dogs chest tightly and put it on them. No one knows why this helps, but many owners swear this makes a difference.
Over the counter sedatives (Like rescue remedy) or veterinary prescriptions like Ace or Valium are a good short term treatment- although not avaliable in an emergency. If your dog is severely anxious, try to keep a stash on hand.
Short term and long term, one of the most important things for an owner to do is not to coddle the dog. Cooing and petting are both"rewarding" actions for a dog- they are used as rewards in training- so what are you training your dog to do when you respond to his anxiety with petting and cooing? Rather than babying your scared dog, try; singing a silly song sqeaking toys taking the time to run the dog through his or her tricks. yawning repeatedly (really). make big, loud, exaggerated yawns- your dog will see your relaxation and respond.Long Term Solutions
Long term solutions to storm and firework anxiety revolve around retraining your dog to associate loud noises with good things.
For dogs scared of "bangs", check out Dale Burrier's article, "The Paper Bag Game - Desensitizing Your Dog to Loud Noises"
For other anxieties, try desensitization CDs. You can by CDs that contain all the common sounds that dogs are afraid of. You can begin playing these CDs at a barely audible level at meal times, play times, and all the "happiest" times of the day. Over the course of weeks you can turn the volume up and after several months your dog should respond to the sound thunder or fireworks with interest or even excitment.
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Natural Remedies
Eyes
When dogs have been underground, their eyes get full of grit, sand and mud. It's important to get this gunk out of the eyes as efficiently and quickly as one can to avoid abrasion of the cornea.
Many people use a commercial saline solution but this generally results in the dog's eyes being puffy and stuck shut the next morning. I have also noticed that there seems to be more chance of this treatment resulting in minor corneal abrasions too. I won't use a saline solution in my dogs' eyes. Boric Acid
If I feel I must flush with something, I use a Boric Acid solution. Boric Acid can be purchased at any pharmacy is very inexpensive and highly effective. The mixed solution yields an antiseptic wash which is equally effective in flushing out open wounds as it is in flushing out eyes. Despite it's name, it's a very gentle solution, and premixed is easy to carry in your hunting bag so that you can flush on site, immediately.
Cod Liver Oil
Strange as it may sound, one drop of Cod Liver Oil in the lower lid of the eye is a highly effective way to gently lift out whatever is in the eye. The oil acts as a lubricant and surrounds the grit, sand etc, away from the cornea and out of the eye area. Cod liver oil is high in Vitamin A which, if there is corneal abrasion, speeds the healing of the cornea. Using this treatment, we have never had a dog's eyes puffy or stuck shut the next morning unless there is additional bite injury to the area.
In a pinch, olive oil is a reasonable substitute for cod liver oil, although it won't have the same amounts of Vitamin A
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Open Wounds and Bites
The single most important thing about open wounds and bites is to ensure that you get the wound clean. If the wound is clean, it can heal. If the wound is clean, you run far less risk of it becoming infected. Therefore, after your JRT has come out of the ground sporting a bite wound, you should flush it liberally to clean it out.
Boric Acid
Boric acid, despite it's name, mixes up into a very gentle, highly effective antiseptic wash. You can purchase Boric Acid in any pharmacy and it's very inexpensive. Boric Acid comes in powdered form, and you can mix it up as per the directions on the bottle with distilled water. Put this pre-mixed solution into a plastic squirt bottle. You might not be able to see anything, but something could be there. So flush it really thoroughly.
Once the wound has been flushed and you are reasonably certain that you have removed any foreign matter from it, you have to decide how serious it is. Most bite wounds should be left unstitched so that any remnants of saliva from the biter can be expelled from it. Most bite wounds do not require the services of a vet, but if you are new to this then you just might want the vet to take a look at them.
Willow Bark For all pain and swellings and fevers I use Willow Bark. Willow bark contains salic acid, and was the natural source that led to the isolation of ASA and our modern aspirin. Unlike aspirin, however, Willow Bark doesn't upset the stomach, and the dogs actually seem to like it's flavour.
Willow bark has a pleasant woody fragrance and is highly effective at reducing pain, reducing swelling and reducing fever in animals and people. The dosage is less problematic as well since you can use a pinch or more depending upon the size of your dog.
Willow bark can be obtained quite inexpensively in either cut herb or powdered form from most good health food stores.
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Pregnancy
Caring for the pregnant bitch isn't as difficult as one might think. Basically you want your pregnant bitch to be healthy so that when the whelping came she will be in proper shape for delivery.
This means that you want your bitch's activity level to stay high -- and you don't want to overfeed her. The only thing that overfeeding will accomplish is that the puppies she is carrying will be fatter -- which translates into more difficulty in delivering them. Once the puppies are born, you will want to have food down for the mother all the time. She gets to eat as much as she likes during the nursing stage of motherhood.
You will however want to feed her differently -- albeit the same amounts. You will want to increase her protein levels -- but make sure that this protein isn't from soya as soya protein has been linked with eclampsia in nursing bitches. [Eclampsia is a condition that is brought about when the puppies are nursing. The mother's calcium levels drop to such dangerous levels that she will begin to convulse and it can be, at worse, fatal. At best you will have to feed the puppies by hand.]
You will also want to ensure that the pregnant bitch is getting increased levels of calcium. The rule of thumb is that the puppies come first so that whatever you feed your bitch, the puppies will get first and the mothers system will get after. By increasing the vitamin supplementation for the pregnant bitch, you will ensure that both the puppies and the mother will get sufficient to retain good health. Raspberry Leaves
One of the most beneficial supplements that you can add to your bitch's diet is raspberry leaves. Whether in herb or in powder form, this is one of the most important of all the herbs for pregnancy. Be very sure, however, that you don't use "raspberry tea" as this tea doesn't contain the raspberry leaves at all.
As soon as a bitch I am going to breed comes into heat, I begin adding raspberry leaves to her food at each meal. Raspberry leaves help the strengthen uterine walls, helps reduce labour pain, ease delivery and generally helps to expel afterbirths. [Retention of afterbirth can cause serious infections in the mother.]
I have never had a difficult birth while using Raspberry Leaves throughout the heat cycle and through to labour. Raspberry leaves also contain Vitamin C [which will help build strong bones in the puppies and keep mom's bones strong], calcium as well as Vitamins A, B, D, E, G and H, manganese, phosphorus and is rich in iron. Raspberry leaves enrich colostrum in the bitch's milk and consumption after delivery will help reduce uterine swelling and reduce post partum bleeding.
This herb is also recommended for pregnant women for all the same reasons, and is a wonderful herb for children suffering from colds, diarrhea, colic or fevers at any stage. Raspberry leaves will help in the vomiting of a weak child. It is a wonderful herb to have around the house at all times.
For people, steam the raspberry leaves in boiled water for 10 to 15 minutes to make a tea. Drink the tea at least twice a day.
Calcium
Despite raspberry leaves having calcium, I make sure that I add calcium supplements to my pregnant bitches' food as well. The form of calcium I use is either bone meal [this is the refined bone meal sold for people in health and drug stores] or crushed egg shells.
It's a simple matter to rinse out the egg shells from your morning eggs and put them in a coffee grinder to turn them into a fine powder. This is an inexpensive and highly effective means of adding calcium to your dog's diet.
People who use commercial food sometimes switch their pregnant bitch to puppy food during her gestation. This is fine, just be sure not to give her larger portions. Again, you don't want too-fat puppies that are difficult for the mother to deliver -- you just want a healthy mother who can deliver and enjoy her puppies.
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Hotspots
Hot Spots happen more often than not on a broken or rough coated dog who, for one reason or another, is exposed to more heat or humidity than his/her system likes.
Some people maintain that they are the result of an allergy -- generally to fleas. I don't know how valid this is. I do know that in order to keep a hot spot from getting too severe, you must take immediate action.
If possible, clip the fur shorter so that heat/humidity isn't trapped under the outer coat. Then, to help with the itching, add Vitamin C which is a natural antihistamine to help control the irritation. Add essential fatty acids to the dog's diet. You can go to your vet and pay a lot of money for Omega 3 EFA's -- or you can go to the pharmacy and pick up cod liver oil which is Omega 3 EFA's. Salmon oil is also good. If you want to take into account the full spectrum of EFA's , both the Omega 3 and the Omega 6, then you should visit your health food store. They should have something suitable.
If the hot spot is oozing, then apply powdered sulfur powder. This will help dry the area out and heal at the same time. Don't worry if your dog licks at this powder. It won't hurt him/her and will even help her heal if taken internally. I have found, however, that dog's don't like the taste of this all by itself, so it actually can be a deterrent to licking of the area.
You can also use an antibiotic ointment that you get in the pharmacy, but be aware that the base for those ointments is petroleum based and not necessarily good for your dog to ingest.
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Fleas
Fleas are the bane of a dog owner's existence. If you live near grass, your dog is exposed to fleas. And while fleas have always been considered an itchy nuisance there is more danger to your dogs from fleas than just the irritation.
Some dogs are allergic to flea bites and dogs can get tape worms from ingesting the fleas that they might ingest when they are using their mouths to scratch.
I use high quality Kelp with brewer's yeast and garlic. The kelp provides your animal with many of the micro-nutrients that are missing from his/her diet -- even if your dog is on fresh food. This makes the animal healthy and provides a less welcoming environment for parasites. The brewer's yeast and garlic are known insect repellents. You will never hear a vet concur with this last statement, but since I have used it successfully for several years now, I will pass along what I have learned to be true.
Brewer's yeast is also a great source of B-complex vitamins, another boost to your dog's overall well-being -- and the benefits of garlic are so well known and so numerous that I can't go into them all here.
So whether it is that the ingredients in this mixture which just makes the dog so healthy that fleas don't become a problem or whether the brewer's yeast and garlic are, in and of themselves, it doesn't really matter. What does matter is that if it works for me, it might just work for you too.
Just because you repel fleas, doesn't mean that there won't be any. If our dogs go out and about, they can come home covered in fleas. These have to be dealt with immediately to prevent the fleas from infesting the rugs or furniture. We have even been in lovely motel rooms that have been infested with fleas -- and they weren't even "flea-bag" motels! The point is that despite all the best products [and this is true for chemical ones as well] fleas might still be present.
You need to have a flea comb and regularly look for any renegade fleas that might have managed to avoid the repellent. Flea combs are very inexpensive and very effective at trapping the little guys. I have several in various rooms of the house so that I can regularly comb through the dogs' fur to investigate.
If you do happen to have an immediate problem [something like those I describe above] then there are a few things you need to do.
The first thing to do if your dog has been exposed to a large number of fleas is to bathe the dog thus drowning the fleas. If you don't have flea shampoo on hand [like you are in a motel room] then don't worry about it. You might have to worry about the motel room -- and I'd call and change rooms if you can -- but hot soapy water does a good job of getting rid of the fleas on the dog at the moment. It won't provide any residual effect, however, so if you can get hold of some flea shampoo, so much the better. I would try for a herbal one myself, but you have to sometimes take what you can get.
If at home and bathing isn't possible, you can make up Lemon Skin Tonic. Lemons are very good for the skin and contain limonene which is not only a great repellent, but actually dissolves the flea's waxy coating, causing dehydration and death of the flea.
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Herbal Critter Repellant Mix
Herbal Critter Repellent Mix: Dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs, marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, clove buds.
Crush your botanicals well and fill a muslin bag or use it in the cedar chip mixture of your dogs bed. The muslin bags can be placed near your dogs bedding area.
Tick Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of Lavender, Basil, Lemon, Opoponax, Eucalyptus
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary
2 cups of water Flea Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of cedarwood, lemongrass, rose geranium
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs
1- 2 cups of water
Add the essential oils and vodka in a bottle, tighten the lid and shake well. Once the mixture blended (should turn white), add apple cider vinegar. If you have some herbs mentioned above you can make an herbal tea to use in your spritzer.
Boil 2-4 cups of water and remove from heat. Add your dried herbs in the water and let is simmer for 30 minutes. Once cool, drain and use instead of plain water in your spritzer. If you are using an herbal tea, this mixture must be kept in the refrigerator as the herbal teas have the tendency to go bad faster.
Once you have your spritzer you can use this by gently spraying it in to your dogs coat, legs, tummy and back. Rub it in well and apply it as necessary. Do not use any of the essential oils on your dogs face or around nose, ears and eyes. Respect the sensitive nose he/she has and go easy when using aromatic substances such as essential oils.
Check your dog often for fleas and ticks by play petting and inspecting. I always have the following handy when we are conducing an inspection. Tweezers Jar filled with rubbing alcohol. Tissues Cotton balls
Keep in mind that not all ticks carry a disease causing organism, and just because you had a tick bite does not mean you will get Lyme disease. Even if a tick is a carrier, it's bite may not always cause the development of disease, but proper caution and care always is crucial in prevention. If you see any abnormal rashes after a tick bite, you should consult your doctor or your dog's vet immediately.
"Ticks may carry various infectious organisms that can transmit diseases to cats and dogs, including the following (listed with possible symptoms):
babesiosis: lethargy, appetite loss, weakness, pale gums
ehrlichiosis: high fever, muscle achesLyme disease: lameness, swollen joints, fever, poor appetite, fatigue, and vomiting (some infected animals show no symptoms) Tick paralysis in dogs: gradual paralysis, seen first as an unsteady gait from uncoordinated back legs (some infected dogs don't develop paralysis)." Dixie Farley- FDA Consumer magazine (July-August 1996
We always encounter ticks and carry our tweezers and a small jar of alcohol on each trip! Use a fine-point tweezers. Never squeeze the tick’s body. Try to grab it (with your tweezers) where its mouth-parts enter the skin and pull gently without letting go. It will eventually releases its hold by withdrawing its barbed mouth-part from your skin.
Do not try to pull it out within seconds – proper tick removal will take time and needs patience. Keep an eye on any abnormal rashes and consult your doctor if necessary. Once you have successfully removed the tick from your skin or your pets skin, we suggest that you store it in a small jar filled with alcohol for a few days before disposing it.
Dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs, marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary, sage, clove buds. Crush your botanicals well and fill a muslin bag or use it in the cedar chip mixture of your dogs bed. The muslin bags can be placed near your dogs bedding area.
Tick Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of Lavender, Basil, Lemon, Opoponax, Eucalyptus
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried marjoram, eucalyptus, rosemary
2 cups of water Flea Spritzer Blend:
2 drops of cedarwood, lemongrass, rose geranium
1 tea spoon apple cider vinegar
1 tea spoon vodka
1 cup of dried peppermint, eucalyptus, bay leaf herbs
1- 2 cups of water
Add the essential oils and vodka in a bottle, tighten the lid and shake well. Once the mixture blended (should turn white), add apple cider vinegar. If you have some herbs mentioned above you can make an herbal tea to use in your spritzer.
Boil 2-4 cups of water and remove from heat. Add your dried herbs in the water and let is simmer for 30 minutes.
Once cool, drain and use instead of plain water in your spritzer. If you are using an herbal tea, this mixture must be kept in the refrigerator as the herbal teas have the tendency to go bad faster.
Once you have your spritzer you can use this by gently spraying it in to your dogs coat, legs, tummy and back. Rub it in well and apply it as necessary. Do not use any of the essential oils on your dogs face or around nose, ears and eyes. Respect the sensitive nose he/she has and go easy when using aromatic substances such as essential oils.
Check your dog often for fleas and ticks by play petting and inspecting. I always have the following handy when we are conducing an inspection
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Weight Loss Receipes
4 cups cooked veg (carrots, peas, beans corn etc.) fresh or frozen
2 cups of oat or wheat bran
2 cups of rolled oats
1 cup (8oz) of cottage cheese low fat
1 cup (8oz) of lean minced meat (turkey, chicken, beef, heart)
5,000 mg of Calcium or 2 tablespoons bonemeal or 1 eggshell powder less if pet mince with bone is used,
1 teaspoon vegetable oil
3 tablespoons of nutritional yeast or 2 teaspoons pet plus
Dog Vitamins
Cook veg in ¾ cups of water then add oats/bran and cover for 10 mins and allow to soften. Add other ingredients apart from the vitamins. Cool and serve refrigerate rest.
Weight Loss Diet 2
This is better for the smaller dog as more meat
1lb of minced meat
2 lb of cooked potatoes or 3 cups of cooked rice
½ cup of oat or wheat bran or vegetables as above
2 teaspoons of Vegetable oil
2,500 mg Calcium or 1 tablespoon of bonemeal
Dog vitamins and Pet Plus/Pet Essentials added at time of serving
Feed raw if possible apart from the cereals
Amounts to feed:
Ideal Weight in Kilograms |
Cups of Food to use
1 cup is around 8oz / 220g. |
5kg |
2-21/4 cups |
10 kg |
4 cups |
20kg |
6 cups |
30 kg |
8 cups |
These are approximate always weigh your companion regularly to make sure his weight loss is steady. Come in and use our scales try to lose about 2-5% per month
Do not allow access to any other food apart from low calorie snacks like carrot sticks
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Diet for Kidney Problems
4oz of minced beef
2 3/4 cups of cooked white rice (1 cup uncooked approx.)
1 egg
2 tablespoons of safflower, soy or corn oil
600mg of Calcium (use Calcium lactate or gluconate if possible or otherwise Calcium carbonate or eggshell powder 1/3 teaspoon. Not bonemeal or any Calcium phosphate as we need to reduce this for kidney patients)
1/8 th teaspoon of iodised salt
2 tablespoons of parsley finely grated carrot or other vegetable
1/2 -1 clove of garlic minced
Dog vitamins plus
5,000 i.u. of Vitamin A
1,000mg of Vitamin C
Mix together in large bowl and feed raw if you companion will eat it like this otherwise bake for 20 mins. or so in a moderate oven. If cooking add the vitamins after cooking. Add a little liver sometimes 2/3 teaspoons in place of part of the meat and some Ghee or unsalted butter in place of part of the vegetable oil.
Encourage drinking by offering pure fresh water at all times and perhaps a broth of meat or fish once or twice a week.
Other things that may help:
Herbal Remedies:
Alfalfa (Medicago sativa)
2 drops of the tincture daily or alfalfa tablets 1 daily in food.
OR
Marsh Mallow (Althea officinalis)
Give 1/2 teaspoon of an infusion daily for the first few weeks then twice weekly.
Make the infusion by adding two tablespoons of the plant to a cup of boiling water. Steep for 5 minutes
AND
Berberis ( Berberis vulgaris)
2 drops of the mother tincture or 1x dilution in the water or broth daily for 2 weeks
Avoid all processed foods with additives, all flea sprays and other possible toxins the liver and kidneys may have to deal with unless we advice otherwise. This can include environmental toxins such as smoke and fumes and plastic feed bowls.
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General
Siberian Huskies are a medium sized, strong, graceful, and tenacious sled dog. They are a handsome dog, energetic and dignified. While they are a medium sized dog, they are extremely strong, able to pull light loads at moderate speeds for longdistances.
Coat and Grooming
The Siberian Husky is rather a wash and wear type of dog. He is by nature relatively clean and is usually free from body odour and parasites. Siberians clean themselves like cats. Therefore, bathing requirements are minimal.
Once/Twice a year, Siberians "blow" their coats, that is, they shed their coats completely. It is a very intense shedding period that can last up to three weeks from start to finish. The good news about this is it usually only happens twice a year. The remainder of the time, Siberians are relatively shed free. Some people feel that this is easier to cope with than the constant shedding and renewal of many smooth-coated breeds. The shedding period can be rather messy. The hair comes out in large and small clumps. Lots of vacuuming and brushing are in order.
Other than during coat-blowing season, the Siberian needs very little grooming. No trimming or shaving of hair is required or recommended (Bottom of pads is permissible). Just occasional brushing to remove dead hair and keep the coat fresh and shiny is required. Their nails should be checked and clipped regularlyThe Siberian Husky has a delightful temperament, affectionate but not overbearing.. This gentle and friendly disposition may be a heritage from the past, since the Chukchi people held their dogs in great esteem, housed them in the family shelters, and encouraged their children to play with them. The Siberian Husky is alert, eager to please, and adaptable. An aggressive dog is not a team dog, and therefore a lousy sled dog. Siberians are an extremely intelligent and independent breed. They can be very stubborn, owing to their original purpose, and they are easily bored. This independent and stubborn nature may at times challenge your patience. His versatility makes him an agreeable companion to people of most ages and varying interests. However, this is not a breed that is typically recommended for first-time dog owners, as mistakes are easy to make and sometimes difficult to fix with this remarkably intelligent and opportunistic breed.
While capable of showing strong affection for his family, the Siberian Husky is not usually a one-man dog. He exhibits no fear or suspicion of strangers (he is usually reserved at first) and is as likely to greet a would be thief . This is not the temperament of a watch-dog, although a Siberian Husky may unwittingly act as a deterrent to those ignorant of his true hospitable nature, simply due to his intense personality and appearance.
Barking, talking, and howling
Siberian Huskies are rather quiet dogs. They do not typically bark. They do talk, however, in a soft "woo woo woo" sound. They can howl very very well. Owners of multiple Huskies report frequent howling, starting and stopping simultaneously. Since the Siberian, like other northern breeds, is a very pack oriented animal, this behaviour is typical.
Feeding
When you collect your puppy, your breeder should tell you what the puppy's diet has been to date, as well as recommendation as to the best food and feeding frequency in the future, both for while the dog is still a puppy as well as when the dog is an adult. You should try and follow the puppy's diet at the time you collect him from the breeder as best you can, until the puppy is settled in to its new environment. Then you can gradually change the diet to suit your preferences. Remember that sudden changes in diet can severely disrupt the puppy's digestive system and cause gastric distress and many messy accidents. The Siberian requires a relatively small amount of food for his size. This trait may be traced to the origins of the breed, as the Chukchis developed their dogs to pull a light load at a fast pace over great distances in low temperatures on the smallest possible intake of food.
As for the type and "brand" of dog food, basically any reputable dog food manufacturer provides a dog food that is sufficient to keep a dog healthy. However, the premium brands of dog food have the advantage that one can feed the dog less and still get very good nourishment. Some people feed their dogs a mix of canned and dry food twice a day. Others feed only dry and allow free feeding, and so on. Be sure and pick a frequency of feeding, brand, and type of food to suit your dogs needs. For working Siberians, a working dog feed is usually best and siberians that have general exercise regime is usually best on a maintenance diet.
Housing
Siberian Huskies are happiest when they can share in family activities. The siberian should have a large, fenced yard. The fence should be strong and at least 6 feet tall. It is also a good idea to bury wire in the ground to discourage digging out. Siberians are notorious diggers. It is usually best to set up a sand box somewhere in a shaded part of the yard and encourage digging there, if possible. Siberians should not be allowed to roam around the neighbourhood. If one chooses to kennel a Siberian, the kennel should be chain link, with a concrete run.. It should be at least 6 ft high with chain link across the top of the kennel. It should be in a shaded location and have an insulated dog house with a door for shelter from the elements.
Because the Siberian is an arctic dog, it can remain outside in very cold weather. However, it should be provided with shelter from the elements in the form of a good sturdy house. The house should have a flat roof, as Siberians love to lay on top of their houses and observe the world.
Training
Siberian Huskies can be a challenge. They are an extremely intelligent, energetic, and stubborn breed, and one must be ready for the unexpected. It is best to start young with Siberians, and establish the rules of the house early, and make sure that the puppy knows that you are in charge. For example, if you do not want the dog on the bed as an adult, do not allow it as a puppy and never give in, even once, or the dog will think that all rules are flexible. The rule of thumb is that if you train a dog to do something, expect him to do it. Therefore, if the puppy learns that certain things are allowed, it will be difficult to train them not to do them as adults.
Since the dog is pack-oriented, it important to establish yourself as the head of the pack, or alpha, very early. Once you do this, the dog will respect you and training will be much easier.
Obedience training this breed can be very interesting and extremely challenging. Many owners will complain that their dogs act perfectly in class, but will not obey at home. This breed is intelligent enough to differentiate situations very well, and will apply different rules of behaviour for different situations. You must stay on top of the dog and maintain control, which is easier to do while the dog is of manageable size than with a stubborn, energetic adult that has been allowed to get away with undesirable behaviour for a long time.
It is very important to remember that the Siberian Husky is a working breed. His heritage has endowed him with the desire to run and his conformation has given him the ability to enjoy it effortlessly. Because of this, it is important that no Siberian ever be allowed unrestrained freedom. Instead, for his own protection, he should be confined and under control at all times. Since he is a working dog, he must be given something to do. Exercise may be obtained in the leash, at play, and best of all, through mushing. Siberians make wonderful hiking companions, and with a dog backpack, can carry food and water. Above all, if you feel that it is inconvenient or cruel to keep a dog confined and under control like this, then the Siberian Husky is not the breed for you.
The Siberian Husky is a remarkably healthy breed. When well cared for, the Siberian is relatively "maintenance free", outside of normal checkups and vaccinations.
Hip Dysplasia
The incidence of hip dysplasia in Siberians is fairly low.
Eye Problems
Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and central progressive retinal atrophy (CPRA) have appeared in a number of breeds, including Siberians. These problems are genetically caused. Careful screening of potential breeding pairs has helped reduce the incidence of these problem in the breed. How do they cope in the heat?
Siberians coat are an insulation against heat and cold, if they stay in the shade during the heat they usually are relatively fine, DO NOT exercise your siberian in the heat of the day as the sun beating down on their coat will over heat them. Plenty of available fresh water is a must, Many siberians love to dig in their water bowls or play in a kids pool during the heat (sometimes all year round!)
Can Siberians have different coloured eyes?
Yes. This is fairly common in the breed. One eye may be blue while the other is brown, or one eye can be two colours. No they are not blind in their blue eye/s.
Is there something wrong with an eye that is both brown and blue?
No. This is called a "parti eye." It is also fairly common in the breed. One or both eyes may be all blue with a brown pie shaped wedge, or all brown with a blue wedge. At first glance, it may appear that there is something wrong with the eye but there is not. It is simply a matter if pigmentation. This too is perfectly acceptable in the breed.
Are Siberian Huskies part wolf?
No. The Siberian Husky is a domesticated pure bred dog.
Why are some Siberian noses partially pink & partially black?
This is called a "snow nose", and is fairly common in the breed. A snow nose is a reddish or pink marking on a black nose. Snow nose can disappear over warmer months and reappear over the winter months. There is nothing wrong with a snow nose, and it is perfectly acceptable in the breed.
I've heard that Siberians are mischievous. Is this true?
Yes and no. Siberians are very intelligent dogs. They will often do things that surprise their owners. They can get into things that one might think are impossible. Vet visits sometimes happens when Siberians are bored, as they can become quite mischievous, inventive, and destructive. This is typical of working dogs. This is why it is so important to include the Siberian in family activities and give him plenty of attention and exercise.
I've heard Siberians are dumb. Is that true?
No! Siberian Huskies are extremely intelligent working dogs. People often mistake the fact that they can be difficult to train as a sign of stupidity. One must keep the Siberian interested and challenge his intelligence in order to properly train him. A Siberian will probably know what you want him to do, he just may not want to do it!
History
Native to Siberia, the Siberian Husky was brought to Alaska in 1909.
Shortly after 1900, Americans in Alaska began to hear accounts of this superior strain of sled dog in Siberia. The first team of Siberian Huskies made its appearance in the All Alaska Sweepstakes Race of 1909. The same year a large number of them were imported to Alaska by Charles Fox Maule Ramsay, and his team, driven by John "Iron Man" Johnson, won the gruelling 400-mile race in 1910. For the next decade Siberian Huskies, particularly those bred and raced by Leonhard Seppala, captured most of the racing titles in Alaska, where the rugged terrain was ideally suited to the endurance capabilities of the breed.The Siberian Husky was developed by the Chukchi, the breed was developed to fulfil a particular need of the Chukchi life and culture. The Siberian husky was not only used to pull sleds but they were also used to herd reindeer, guard the camps, and hunt. The tribes were nomadic, travelling all along the Arctic Circle. In one of the harshest climates in the world, with temperatures plummeting in winter, the Chukchi relied on there dogs for survival, as they were a remarkable tool of ingenuity. The Chukchi economy and religious life was centered around the Huskies. The best dogs were owned by the richest members of the community, and this is precisely why they were richest members of the community. Many religious ceremonies were dedicated around the huskies, according to Chukchi belief two huskies guard the gates of heaven turning away anybody that has shown cruelty to a dog in there life time. A Chukchi legend tells of a time of famine both human and dog populations were decimated, the last two remaining pups were nursed at a woman's breast to insure the survival of the breed.
Tribe life revolved around the dogs The women of the tribe reared the pups and chose what pups to keep, discarding all but the most promising bitches and neutering all but the most promising males. The men's responsibility was sled training, huskies also would act as companions for the children and families dogs slept inside. The legendary sweetness of temperament was no accident.100 miles out on the ice, a single man with twenty dogs, if there's a dog fight , he simply does not get home.
When winter came, all dogs were tied up when not working, but the elite entire dogs were allowed to roam and breed at will, this insured that only the very best would breed. In summer, all dogs were releasee and allowed to hunt in packs, they would only return to the villages when the snow returned and food grew scarce. The primitive hunting instincts can still be found in the breed today.
Long before the Soviets managed to relegate them to the category of "those who officially never existed." The reputation of the little Chukchi dogs had already spread throughout the world around the turn of the twentieth century, polar exploration was capturing the worlds attention and adventurers came to the yearly Markova Fair on the Siberian peninsula where tribes of the area came to trade. This gathering included the Chukchi and other dog-breeding tribes, such as the Koryak (all of whom probably had some part in the pool of animals that eventually became the Siberian Husky). Goosak, a Russian fur trader acquired a team there in 1908 and, in 1909, took them across the Bering Strait to race in the All Alaska Sweepstakes, a 408-mile, gruelling race first run in 1908.The Alaskan Gold Rush had established the sled dog as an invaluable commodity, and the race had been instituted to add excitement to an otherwise pretty grim world, to give bragging rights to the eventual winner, and to give vent to that favourite frontier boomtown passion, gambling. Nome to Candle and back, was the route of the race crossing every conceivable terrain, including a valley almost always engulfed in a blizzard. Caches of food were strategically stashed along the route by drivers. Regular checkpoints were established, but rest was at each driver's discretion. The Trade Saloon in Nome, was the betting office bets were placed on a board and betting was open until the first team crossed the finish line. School children had a holidays the four days of the race and at the start of the race in 1909 event, there was already more than $100,000 bet on the race. The Siberians were about half the weight of the local sled dogs, and much smaller in stature. They were given little chance by the bookies , referred to then as Siberian Wolf Dogs. They were dubbed "Siberian Rats," because of their small stature. But Thurstrup was convinced by Goosak to take on the team in April 1909, the first team of Siberian Huskies to be seen on the North American continent trotted out of the town of Nome and into the annals of historyUnfortunately, Thurstrup was not a wise or judicious driver. At the halfway point in the race, he took a short rest period in Candle, he was overtaken by two more rested teams in the last stretch of the race. and finished in third place. The little dogs surprised everyone. This Inspired a young Scot named Fox Maule Ramsey to spend $25,000 on a freighter to transport seventy new Siberians across the Bering Sea,. He split these into three teams for the 1910 race, the results were first, second, and fourth place places.
Leonhard Seppala
Daring his first trip east, the redoubtable Leonhard Seppala and his celebrated "Serum Run" team posed for this photo on the roof of a department store in Providence, Rhode Island. One of these dogs actually leaped over the roof s guard wall of this very tall building that dci). Fortunately); he was saved when his fall was broken by a projecting awning.
Born in Norway, inside the Arctic Circle Leonhard Seppala came to Alaska as a young man around 1900 seeking fortune and adventure. A short man at only about 5 feet tall, Seppala had been an Arctic fisherman since he was 11years old, an apprentice blacksmith to his father, and was an accomplished wrestler and skier. Seppalla worked at various jobs in the mining camps. In 1914, Jafet Lindeberg, his employer, acquired what was left of the first Siberian imports and their offspring, around fifteen animals in all. They were to be a gift to the explorer Captain Roald Amundsen, who was planning a expedition to the North Pole. Seppala was given the job of the care and training of the dogs, and he loved it.
When World War I broke out it changed Amundsen’s plans, and Seppala ended up in possession of the dogs. He entered the 1914 All Alaska Sweepstakes, but with disastrous results he had to drop out early when he lost the trail, and his dogs’ feet got badly cut. He trained hard in secret, far from town, Blitzing the field in the 1915 Sweepstakes by over and hour . He repeated this victory in 1916 and 1917, at which time the increased war effort and the lack of any real competition for him caused the race to be discontinued.
Seppala became known as the little man with his little dogs, became a legend in Alaska, remaining devoted to his Siberians hauling freight and supplies, setting many new records in mid-distance races, and on several occasions being involved in truly heroic exploits he once, unarmed, chasing down an armed kidnapper, and on another occasion transporting a man mangled in a sawmill accident over a long distance at a speed no one thought possible.
In 1925, Seppala and his Siberians came to national prominence, with the famous "Serum Run" that saved the city of Nome from a diphtheria epidemic. Seppala and his Siberians, with his famous lead dog Togo, covered 340 miles in that race against death, with no other team travelling more than 53 miles.
After the Serum Run Seppala was a national hero and he marched in parades and posed for glamorous photographs in his equally glamorous furs. All this fame and notoriety brought a challenge from Arthur Walden the polar explorer, adventurer, and full-time blowhard, he challenged Seppala to come to New England to race against his locally famous Chinook dogs, a strain of large, Mastiff-types he had developed from a single dog. This dog, named Chinook, gained fame on Admiral Richard E. Byrd's first Antarctic expedition. Walden would become Byrd's chief dog handler on that voyage, was the president of the New England Sled Dog Club, and was generally considered unbeatable.
Seppala accepted the challenge, As they drove their teams for three days to get to the site of the race, Seppala was careful to keep his dogs in check and letting Walden gain a false sense of confidence. Seppala figured his dogs may be out of condition from all their parade appearances and wasn't sure how they would perform on the New England trails. As the two teams lined up the Chinooks weighing in at 90 to 100 pounds, the Siberians at around half that weight the contrast was striking . many New Englanders objected to the race on humanitarian grounds, considering the Siberians too small to compete (There were even nutters like that in them days) Dick Moulton, who would later become Byrd's chief dog handler and a two-time Congressional Medal of Honour winner (once for saving the Admiral's wife and once for his search-and-rescue missions during the Battle of the Bulge), was a teenager at the time. Moulton remembered vividly the stark contrast between the dogs as the two teams were boarded at opposite ends of a barn the night before the race. "At one end," he says, were Walden's great big Chinooks, while at the other were these sweet, little, kind of foxy Siberian dogs who stood up on their hind legs to greet you, and their heads were hardly higher than your waist."
The next day Seppala simply left Walden's team in his dust , changing the history of New England sled dog racing for all time. Admiral Byrd, himself, would learn the same lesson when he reprimanded Moulton, upon first arriving on his second Antarctic expedition, asking why in the world he had brought such little dogs. Moulton simply demurred, and Byrd then took off at this point in the story, a twinkle in his eyes.
Seppala stayed on in New England for a time, winning pretty much all the races and planting the seeds of the future Siberian Husky that would come to be officially recognized by the American Kennel Club in 1930.A partnership with Seppala and a woman named Elizabeth Ricker, Elizabeth had imported the last Siberians to come directly from Siberia and was an avid sled dog enthusiast, Nine of these were selected by the renowned expert on Siberian dogs,Olaf Swenson, but the ship that brought them to the United States became stranded in ice for the winter, and only four survived.Kreevanka and Tserko were the most influential of these males, who, along with the legendary Togo, his father Suggen, and the beautiful leader Fritz, probably figure in the pedigree of every Siberian Husky living-if one were to trace back that far.
The dogs developed by the Seppala-Ricker partnership eventually went to Harry Wheeler of St. Jovite, Canada, in 1932 when Elizabeth Ricker married the explorer Kaare Nansen and gave up her dogs. From these, in turn, came the animals that would form the three most influential kennels in the establishment and development of the AKC-recognized Siberian Husky: Milton and Eva Seeley’s Chinook Kennels, Nicholas and Lorna Demidoff’s Monadnock Kennels, and Mrs. Marie Lee Frothingham’s Gold River Kennels.
Togo became permanently lame from that marathon run. Seppala credited Togo with over 5,000 miles in his running career. The teams had covered a distance of 650 miles that normally took the mail teams twenty-five days, and they did it in just five and a half days. Senator Dill of Washington state had the story written into the Congressional Record, one sentence of which reads, "Men had thought the limit of speed and endurance had been reached in the gruelling races of Alaska, but a race for sport and money proved to have far less stimulus than this contest in which humanity was the urge and life was the prize.
More Facts
Many believe the Siberian Husky should be more properly named the Arctic Husky due to its wide range. When fur traders came to Siberia and found these dogs they were amazed at their versatility and their ability to pull loads for long distances. When they were brought to Alaska they were looked down upon because of their small size, that soon changed. They started winning all the major races and soon gained popularity.
When the Siberian Husky was still in development with tribes only stretching as far as Northern Europe they were required to go for thousands of miles on very little or no food because the tribes at the time were nomadic. However when tribes reached Alaska across the land bridge they made 1 of 2 decisions. They could have either went on, down to South America, Central America or where the lower 48 states are today, becoming what are known today as the Incas, the Amazonians, Apache, and others. Or, they could have decided to stay in Alaska, a place they found mysterious and full of wonder.
Those who decided to stay in Alaska settled where they were. Thus not requiring dogs with great endurance. What they desired were dogs that could carry extremely heavy loads of food and goods allowing them to make minimal trips. The more they could carry at once the better. That is why the Alaskan Malamutes are bigger, and stronger than their Siberian cousins.
When the Siberian Husky became extremely popular so extremely fast it was short-lived. In the late 1930s people thought that if they could bring these dogs from Siberia that were faster and had more endurance than the dogs they had before, than there was no reason to say that they couldn't develop even faster dogs. Soon people started breeding Siberians to setters, wolves, hounds, you name it. Just about anything mixed with Siberians were used to pull a sled and were named Alaskan Husky. Overtime people found that hounds like the whippet which were medium size much like the Siberian dogs and faster than that of the Greyhounds were better than setters and other mixes.
Today most people still think of a Siberian Husky when they hear the word sled dog. However most mushers today use Alaskan Huskies. In the beginning there were no real long-distance races. To some 200-300 miles seems long, but in comparison to the Iditarod or the Yukon Quest it isn't long at all. The difference in racing 300 miles to 1000 miles is big. Racing the 300 mile races were ideal for people with Alaskan Huskies because they were fast, and although they didn't have the endurance of the Siberian Huskies they had half of it and that allowed them to have to rest only as much as they ran. With this it was much easier for people to use them for racing. . They were popular in the early 1900s however... by the 1930s they started to die out. With the use of the airplane and other ways of travel the need for the Siberian Husky was no more. Soon the only use for these dogs was racing, and people found that they could improve the speed of these dogs. So much so that they stopped using them all around for races because they were known to be slower and more stubborn than the hound mixes. Some people however kept their Siberians and today we are seeing more and more of these racing kennels with dogs that can keep up with the Alaskan counterparts. In a way, mixing the Siberian dogs with hounds was a short cut from having to create a better racing sled dog through selective breeding. However the traditional Siberian Husky brought over is still most ideal for the long distance races of today. Just if people would rethink their racing strategy and choice of dogs.
Standard
General:
The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, quick and light on his feet and free and graceful in action. His moderately compact and well-furred body, erect ears and brush tail suggest his Northern heritage. His characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. He performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at a moderate speed over great distances. His body proportions and form reflect this basic balance of power, speed and endurance. The males of the Siberian Husky breed are masculine but never coarse; the bitches are feminine but without weakness of structure. In proper condition, with muscle firm and well developed, the Siberian Husky does not carry excess weight.
Characteristics:
Summary: The most important breed characteristics of the Siberian Husky are medium size, moderate bone, well-balanced proportions, ease and freedom of movement, proper coat, pleasing head and ears, correct tail, and good disposition. Any appearance of excessive bone or weight, constricted or clumsy gait, or long, rough coat should be penalised. The Siberian Husky never appears so heavy or coarse as to suggest a freighting animal; nor is he so light and fragile as to suggest a sprint-racing animal. In both sexes the Siberian Husky gives the appearance of being capable of great endurance.
Temperament:
The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and outgoing. He does not display the possessive qualities of the guard dog, nor is he overly suspicious of strangers or aggressive with other dogs. Some measure of reserve and dignity may be expected in the mature dog. His intelligence, tractability, and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker.
Head & Skull:
Expression: Is keen, but friendly; interested and even mischievous.
Skull: Of medium size and in proportion to the body; slightly rounded on top and tapering from the widest point to the eyes. Faults: Head clumsy or heavy; head too finely chiselled.
Stop: The stop is well-defined and the bridge of the nose is straight from the stop to the tip. Fault: Insufficient stop.
Muzzle: Of medium length; that is, the distance from the tip of the nose to the stop is equal to the distance from the stop to the occiput. The muzzle is of medium width, tapering gradually to the nose, with the tip neither pointed nor square. Faults: Muzzle either too snipy or too coarse; muzzle too short or too long.
Nose: Black in grey, tan or black dogs; liver in copper dogs; may be flesh coloured in pure white dogs. The pink-streaked "snow nose" is acceptable.
Lips: Are well pigmented and close fitting.
Eyes:
Almond shaped, moderately spaced and set a trifle obliquely. Eyes may be brown or blue in colour; one of each or particoloured are acceptable. Faults: Eyes set too obliquely; set too close together.
Ears:
Of medium size, triangular in shape, close fitting and set high on the head. They are thick, well furred, slightly arched at the back, and strongly erect, with slightly rounded tips pointing straight up. Faults: Ears too large in proportion to the head; too wide set; not strongly erect.
Mouth:
Teeth: Closing in a scissor bite. Fault: Any bite other than scissor.
Neck:
Medium in length, arched and carried proudly erect when dog is standing. When moving at a trot, the neck is extended so that the head is carried slightly forward. Faults: Neck too short and thick; neck too long.
Forequarters:
Shoulders: The shoulder blade is well laid back. The upper arm angles slightly backward from point of shoulder to elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well developed. Faults: Straight shoulders; loose shoulders.
Forelegs: When standing and viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight, with the elbows close to the body and turned neither in nor out. Viewed from the side, pasterns are slightly slanted, with the pastern joint strong, but flexible. Bone is substantial but never heavy. Length of the leg from elbow to ground is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the top of the withers. Dew claws on forelegs may be removed. Faults: Weak pasterns; too heavy bone; too narrow or too wide in the front; out at the elbows.
Body:
Chest: Deep and strong, but not too broad, with the deepest point being just behind and level with the elbows. The ribs are well-sprung from the spine but flattened on the sides to allow for freedom of action.
Faults: Chest too broad; "barrel ribs"; ribs too flat or weak.
Back: The back is straight and strong, with a level top line from withers to croup. It is of medium length, neither cobby nor slack from excessive length. The loin is taut and lean, narrower than the rib cage, and with a slight tuck-up. The croup slopes away from the spine at an angle, but never so steeply as to restrict the rearward thrust of the hind legs. Faults: Weak or slack back; roached back; sloping top line.
Hindquarters:
When standing and viewed from the rear, the hind legs are moderately spaced and parallel. The upper thighs are well muscled and powerful, the stifles well bent, the hock joint well defined and set low to the ground. Dew claws, if any, are to be removed. Faults: Straight stifles; cow hocks; too narrow or too wide in the rear.
Feet:
Oval in shape but not long. The paws are medium in size, compact and well furred between the toes and pads. The pads are tough and thickly cushioned. The paws neither turn in nor out when the dog is in natural stance. Faults: Soft or splayed toes; paws too large and clumsy; paws too small and delicate; toeing in or out.
Tail:
The well furred tail of fox-brush shape is set on just below the level of the top line, and is usually carried over the back in a graceful sickle curve when the dog is at attention. When carried up, the tail does not curl to either side of the body, nor does it snap flat against the back. A trailing tail is normal for the dog when in repose. Hair on the tail is of medium length and approximately the same length on top, sides and bottom, giving the appearance of a round brush. Faults: A snapped or tightly curled tail; highly plumed tail; tail set too low or too high.
Gait/Movement:
The Siberian Husky's characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. He is quick and light on his feet, and when in the show ring should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately fast trot, exhibiting good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the hindquarters. When viewed from the front or rear while moving at a walk the Siberian Husky does not single track, but as the speed increases the legs gradually angle inward until the pads are falling on a line directly under the longitudinal centre of the body. As the pad marks converge, the forelegs and hind legs are carried straight forward, with neither elbows nor stifles turned in or out. Each hind leg moves in the path of the foreleg on the same side. While the dog is gaiting, the top line remains firm and level. Faults: Short, prancing or choppy gait, lumbering or rolling gait; crossing or crabbing.
Coat:
The coat of the Siberian Husky is double and medium in length, giving a well-furred appearance, but is never so long as to obscure the clean-cut outline of the dog. The undercoat is soft and dense and of sufficient length to support the outer coat. The guard hairs of the outer coat are straight and somewhat smooth lying, never harsh nor standing straight off from the body. It should be noted that the absence of the undercoat during the shedding season is normal. Trimming of whiskers and fur between the toes and around the feet to present a neater appearance is permissible. Trimming the fur on any other part of the dog is not to be condoned and should be severely penalised. Faults: Long, rough, or shaggy coat; texture too harsh or too silky; trimming of the coat, except as permitted above.
Colour:
All colours from black to pure white are allowed. A variety of markings on the head is common, including many striking patterns not found in other breeds.
Size:
Size, Proportion, Substance:
Height: Dogs 53.5-60 cm (21 - 23½ ins) at the withers
Bitches 51-56 cm (20-22 ins) at the withers.
Weight: Dogs 20-27 kg (45-60 lbs
Bitches 16-23 kg (35-50 lbs)
Weight is in proportion to height.
The measurements mentioned above represent the extreme height and weight limits with no preference given to either extreme. Any appearance of excessive bone or weight should be penalised. In profile, the length of the body from the point of the shoulder to the rear point of the croup is slightly longer than the height of the body from the ground to the top of the withers.
Disqualification: Dogs over 60cm (23½ ins) and bitches over 56 cm (22 ins).
Faults:
Skull :Head clumsy or heavy; head too finely chiselled.
Stop: Insufficient stop.
Muzzle: Muzzle either too snipy or too coarse; muzzle too short or too long.
Eyes: Eyes set too obliquely; set too close together.
Ears: Ears too large in proportion to the head; too wide set; not strongly erect.
Mouth: Any bite other than scissor.
Neck: Neck too short and thick; neck too long.
Shoulders: Straight shoulders; loose shoulders.
Forelegs: Weak pasterns; too heavy bone; too narrow or too wide in the front; out at the elbows.
Chest: Chest too broad; "barrel ribs"; ribs too flat or weak.
Back: Weak or slack back; roached back; sloping top line.
Hindquarters: Straight stifles; cow hocks; too narrow or too wide in the rear.
Feet: Soft or splayed toes; paws too large and clumsy; paws too small and delicate; toeing in or out.
Tail: A snapped or tightly curled tail; highly plumed tail; tail set too low or too high.
Gait/Movement: Short, prancing or choppy gait, lumbering or rolling gait; crossing or crabbing.
Coat: Long, rough or shaggy coat; texture too harsh or too silky; trimming of the coat, except as permitted above.
Disqualifications:
Dogs over 60 cm (23½ins) and bitches over 56 cm (22 ins).
In addition to the faults already noted, the obvious structural faults common to all breeds are as undesirable in the Siberian Husky as in other breed, even though they are not specifically mentioned herein.
NOTE - Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum. American Kennel Club Standard, effective from 28/11/90
F.C.I. Standard No. 270
Adopted in Australia 1/1/94
Country of Development - United States of America.
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